Kaua’I 2011, Day One

Our vacation actually started the evening before when we checked into the Holiday Inn on North Furth Street in San Jose.  We have found that this allows us to start unwinding from our daily routine and allows us to totally be in the relaxed spirit of the vacation by the time we board the plane.  Naturally, going through the TSA inspection is a hassle. Penny has two artificial knees and so always has to go through the pat-down procedure while I collect our shoes, canes, and carry-ons.  Once through that it is total aloha spirit.

We took Alaska Air (AkA) this trip to Kaua’i.  They have a direct flight from San Jose to Lihue and back now, plus it was $200 less than Hawaiian Airlines (HA) that we usually take.  Penny likes the digi-player which was only $10 (HA is $15).  Another perk was a free Mai Tai before landing.  Since we were near the back, they ran out of Mai Tai’s so I consoled myself with a free Bloody Mary and Penny had a ginger ale.  HA also gives people in cattle class a free meal while AkA didn’t.  Oh. well, a meal isn’t really worth $200, is it?

We arrived about 10:40 AM HST, I gathered the luggage while Penny got the rental car.  Enterprise had a last minute deal that saved $150 for our two week stay compared to AVIS for a four-wheel drive SUV.  We like to go to Polihale Beach where the road becomes dirt and sand and we have had trouble in a convertible – nothing that we weren’t able to get ourselves out of, but enough to be little disconcerting, nonetheless.

Since we couldn’t check in until 3:00 PM, we decided to do some birding and get lunch.  We went to Savage Shrimp in Po’ipu’s new Shops at Kukui’ula.  The Garlic Shrimp was messy (they were peel and eat) but scrumptious.  The Fried Shrimp and french fries were to die for.  The corn meal and (?) breading was crispy and not at all greasy.  The french fries were maybe the best we’ve had at a fast food place. After eating we went to Salt Pond Beach and Port Allen to see what birds might be around.  Aside from the usual suspects, we saw our first Red Avadavats on Kaua’i.  They were all females and immatures, which we had never seen, so it took a few minute of reading our bird guides and studying the birds until I found one that was molting into adult male plumage before we were 100% sure of our find.  We were about 95% sure because of their bright red bills and rumps plus many of them had small white spots on their wings that looked like Red Avadavats that we’ve seen on the Big Island.  There were lots of Chestnut Mannikins with them that we always enjoy seeing.

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On the Road to Hana: Island Chef

We stopped at Nahiku Market Place to grab some lunch and check out any local crafts that they might have.  What we found iconwas the Island Chef in an out of the way slot between the last two shops.  It could have been easy to miss had we not been poking into every nook.  You won’t find it listed in the tourist guides, Not even the blue-covered Hawaiian traveler’s Bible, Maui Revealedicon.  Most importantly, the food was wonderful.

Island Chef Kitchen (click to enlarge)

I’m something of a fish and chips aficionado and his were some of the best I’ve ever had.  He came out of his RV-style kitchen  to greet us and show us his fresh ahi.  We opted for the ono, which also was fresh from the fish market in Hana that morning.  The batter was similar to a thin tempura.  He fried it in a wok to a perfect golden brown  The crust was crisp and the fish fully cooked, tender and moist.  The potatoes were a crispy light gold with firm insides that were neither crunchy nor mealy, more like baked potato.

Chef Eric (click to enlarge)

I had the good fortune to talk story with the chef, Eric, a warm, kind, and genial fellow.icon  He started the Island Chef two years ago with his wife.  He was taught to cook by a Chinese master during the previous six years while he made his living as an auto mechanic.  He and his wife make all their own sauces from local produce and spices when available.  He loves cooking and meeting the people who travel the rod to Hana.  He also has a very loyal local following.  Beautifully polished picnic benches sealed with acrylic are arranged dining area under a canvas canopy.  This is another skill that Eric has learned in the islands. A unique touch is that the corners of the bench and table are chamfered to eliminated the chance of getting snagged.

Eric grew up and worked for several years in California.  He came to Maui after the untimely death of his parents from cancer (mother) and a stroke (father).  They had been his best friends and he needed time and a place to heal.  Maui was kind to him and he lives the aloha of the island.  He is a gift to Maui and his restaurant a must stop along the road to Hana.

If you go, please tell him that Dave said, “Aloha!”

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On the Road to Hana

Penny and I recently went to Maui for a Road to Hana Seascapeweek to celebrate our fortieth wedding anniversary. We love the drive to Hana and take it every time we go to Maui. It has been several years, so it was mostly like a new experience of a partially remembered dream.

We made several obligatory stops at waterfalls, though we tended to pass the ones that were crowded. We like our space and like to enjoy each other’s company without intrusion or interruption. The views were gorgeous.  It is impossible to catch the breath-taking and awe-inspiring wonder of the seascapes and landscapes in a photo. But I still tried several hundred times along the way.

Black Noddy on the Rocks (click image to enlarge)

Black Noddy on the Wing (click image to enlarge)

Of course, birds were always on my mind, and we did see a few of our target birds, Black Nod- dies, at Waianapanapa State Park as expected.  A blurry photo of one is at the left.  Another is perched on a rocky tower at the edge of Waianapanapa Bay. When we arrived at Halfway to Hana, we decided it was time for lunch, and that will be the subject of my next post.

If you are ready to go to Maui or any of the Hawaiian Islands, Search for Flights on HawaiianAirlines.com

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Elkhorn Slough Safari in Moss Landing, California

Every spring and autumn we take a trip with Captain Yohn Gideon on the Elkhorn Slough Safari.  During these periods of migration, he conducts special birding tours, guided by a local expert birder.  This spring Jennifer Green was our guide.  She began her birding in 1976 in New Hampshire when she was hooked by an Atlantic Puffin.  There’s just nothin’ like a puffin.

Weather was perfect as we departed the dock in Moss Landing Harbor at 9:00 AM.  The usual birds were hanging around: American Coots, European Starlings, Western Gulls, Brewer’s Blackbirds, House Sparrows, and House Finches.  In short order we passed a few lazy Sea Lions sunning themselves on one of the little docks jutting into the harbor, bracketed by fishing boats.

Before reaching the harbor mouth the remains of  an old pier serve as a roost for cormorants and pelicans.  This time of year, the Brown Pelicans are in the Gulf of California for their mating season.  Although we usually will see one or two that didn’t make the trip, there were none this year.  Also unusual, only Brandt’s Cormorants were on the old pier’s skeleton.  We would have to wait to see the Double-crested and Pelagic Cormorants that usually share the pilings and rails.  On the south jetty, Penny spotted a Black Turnstone,  a treat that the rest of us missed.

Two Otters on the Beach (click to enlarge)

Going past the entry to Elkhorn Slough and the harbor mouth, a large raft of Sea Otters graced the calmer water.  The otters were busy with their breakfast.  Diving for crustaceans and breaking the shells by pounding them on the rocks that they had resting on their chests.  A couple of the otters had love on their minds, tussling and spinning in the water, the male trying to grab the female by the nose as a prelude to mating.

Eared Grebe (click to enlarge)

Several Eared, Western, and Clark’s Grebes were busy diving for small fish near the otters and a few gulls were nearby as well hoping to steal some scraps that the otters might drop.  None had any luck while we were watching.  And on into the slough we go, passing under the Highway 1 bridge.

Harbor Seal Mother and Pup (click to enlarge)

Highlights of the rest of the trip included seeing several newborn Harbor Seal pups, some only a few hours old with the stump of their umbilicus still attached.  American Avocets are almost in full breeding plumage, gracefully sweeping their bright, rusty heads and necks back and forth with their curved bills swinging like scythes during harvest in times past.

American Avocet (click to enlarge)

After turning to head home, Captain Gideon passes around the tasty cookies his wife Melanie bakes for her Captain’s Inn Bed & Breakfast guests.  Oatmeal and raisin today, they were good accompaniment for the Captain’s coffee Penny and I shared. We have stayed at the Captain’s Inn at least once every year since it opened. We are especially fond of the rooms in the Boat House that fronts the Salinas River Mouth. Melanie’s breakfasts are elegant and scrumptious and a great way to start the day before heading out on the slough with the captain. More pictures of some of the animals are here: .

 

We spotted a total of 48 bird species, about average for a spring outing on the slough. We also saw a Bat Ray; not something we see every trip. Before heading home, we lunched at the Whole Enchilada, another tradition we have when going on the Safari. The specialty is Mexican-style seafood. Penny had the fish tacos and I the Whole Enchilada, a filet of red snapper wrapped in a large corn tortilla and topped with pasilla chile salsa and melted cheese. We have yet to have a dish that didn’t delight.

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